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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.